SOME INFORMATION ABOUT THEM......

Mouse Care Sheet
Scientific Name for the domesticated mouse: Mus musculus Domesticus
Phylum: Cordata
Classification: Mammalian
Order: Rodentia
Family: Muridae
Female: Doe
Male: Buck
Neonate-Sub-adult: Kittens/Pups
Gestational period: 18-22 days
Weaned: Usually from 4+ weeks old
Mice are Rodents, small mammals belonging to the largest order seen on our planet. Unfortunately, due to their destructive nature in the wild, they are classed as Vermin by the majority of people, which has given many an unwarranted opinion when it comes to their domesticated cousins. Mice do not get the recognition they deserve and can make rewarding pets.
Choosing your pet Mouse
Mice maybe small but they have big hearts and in most cases are gentle creatures. When choosing a pet it is generally wiser to seek out a hobby breeder over other sources. A hobby breeder will know the personalities of their animals, breed for temperament and should be able to answer basic questions on all aspects of husbandry when it comes to that animal. You should be able to view the animals in the home with their litter mates, this is where they are most comfortable at this stage in their lives and it is the only place you can see them interact normally with one another and their owner. Any change to their surroundings or uprooting them to travel to meet you will obviously have an effect on their behavior and could be misleading. Never choose a Mouse who seems withdrawn, sullen or extremely scared of their breeder. Ideally, the perfect candidate is inquisitive, approaches the cage front to great their owner and is interested in activities around them. The Mouse should be alert, have an over all look of good health and show no aggression what so ever toward the owner. It is not uncommon for a mouse to nibble on your fingers but this is not to be confused with an aggressive bite. Most of the time nibbling feels similar to tickling and does not hurt but always remember to wash your hands after handling food as Mice have a good sense of smell and could mistakes the fingers that smell like food, for food :)
Ideally, you should keep a same sex pair (if you wish to own a male pair, litter mates do best together but never introduce a female as they will fight) as they enjoy each others company and seem to benefit greatly from the presence of another, with less mental health issues arising in pairs or female groups. Although both sexes make great pets, male mouse urine is more potent.
Housing your Mouse
When it comes to housing you should provide your mouse with the most comfortable, safe environment possible. Always remember it is not what you deem to be aesthetically pleasing but rather what your mouse will enjoy and benefit from the most. Keeping that in mind the first thing is the enclosure. Mice need security & ventilation. We find the most secure housing you can offer to your mouse is a Glass Reptile tank, similar to the Exo Terra for reptiles (NEVER keep in direct sunlight as 'the Green House effect' will most certainly come into play with temperatures rising inside the tank and the outcome for your pet will not be good). Not only does this provide four impenetrable walls and flooring (if your little furry decides to test the water by digging and chewing), it also provides a wire mesh roof which allows for good ventilation. So now you have a safe, secure house sorted, you need to look at furnishings.
As Mice are primarily Nocturnal, you need to provide a good substrate, a solid none-transparent hide, some play toys and cosy bedding. Aspen shavings or Newspaper are the best to use as there are many reports of Pine & Cedar shavings containing toxins which are fatal to many animals, Mice included. If you choose shavings, I highly recommend you sieve them before placing them into your pets home, even if the package states 'dust free', in my experience there is no such thing as completely dust free so sieving is the way to go (this reduces the amount of dust the animal could possibly inhale). The hide should be large enough for the Mouse to sleep inside comfortably but also block out any day light when the animal is resting. Sleep is very important for physical and mental stability. Animals who do not rest properly can become erratic, loose feeding routines, over eat and find simplistic tasks a challenge.
Make sure to furnish the house with at least one other hide to offer a choice on sleeping quarters. Mice love to explore and play and I feel it is important to offer them as much variety as possible. Plastic tubes, carpet tubes (the kind found inside a role of carpet) and tunnels offer some exciting places for them to explore. They will also enjoy an exercise wheel but never ever use an open wire wheel. I cannot stress how important it is to get a solid wheel (we favour the Silent Spinner wheel when it comes to anything from Mice up to Hedgehogs). Wire wheels not only pose a risk to feet but also tails and are not safe for your pet. Mice can litter train so spend some time watching your new pet, find the corner they have chosen as a bathroom, takes some of the shavings they have urinated & defecated on and place these inside your litter tray. After thoroughly steralising the corner, place the litter tray there and in the majority of cases, most mice will start to use the tray as the bathroom, this is a big help when it comes to hygiene and sanitation within the enclosure. One thing to keep in mind if opting for a wire top cage is to never feed your mouse through the bars as they will soon associate anything coming through the bars as food and that includes fingers.
Feeding Mice
Mice are omnivores. Requiring a diet which consists of protein (avg. 16%), Fiber (avg. 18%) and fat (avg. 4%). It is up to you as an owner to provide a healthy, varied diet. Mice synthesize their own Vitamin C so you do not need to substitute this in their diet. Citrus fruits can be avoided completely as they can cause upset tummies. If you can source a good quality mouse pellet, this can be offered as the staple when mixed with grains (although seeds, grains, nuts and any mix, should be offered sparingly), this way you know exactly what your mouse is eating. Some people suggest feeding Iams (Dog kibble, not over 8% fat) mixed in with some rodent mix if you cannot locate a good mouse pellet but not too much Cat/Dog kibble as they are a rich food. A small portion of Denta sticks can be offered as a treat. The following list contains foods you can offer to your mouse along with their staple.
Apple (no seeds, sparingly)
Safe Foods
Brussel Sprouts (cooked only, sparingly)Cabbage (sparingly)
Carrots (sparingly)Dates (sparingly)
Cauliflower Leaves (sparingly)
Celery (sparingly)
Dandelion leaves(sparingly)
Figs (sparingly)
Hay (Timothy, Oat & Wheat Hay can be offered daily)
Millet (not the white variety, sparingly)
Peas (sparingly)
Raisins (sparingly)
Rocket (sparingly)
Spinach (sparingly)
Strawberry (sparingly)
Sultanas (sparingly)
Toast (or stale bread NOT mouldy & given sparingly)
Tomato (sparingly)
Watercress (sparingly)
Low Sugar cereal can be offered as a treat;
Other treats you can offer;
Cherios
Corn FlakesOther treats you can offer;
Boiled Pasta (must be cooked & offered sparingly as a treat ONLY)
Boiled Rice (must be cooked & offered sparingly as a treat ONLY)
Some owners choose to keep their Mice as strict Herbivours and other people offer a more varied, natural diet. If you choose to be more open when it comes to feeding time, you can offer Mealworm (sparingly as they are high in fat) or gut loaded Crickets (Gut Loading refers to feeding the Cricket a couple of days before offering it to your pet).
Unsafe Foods or food to be avoided
Carbonated Drinks (it is shocking to think of some of the products people offer their pets, soft drinks are NOT SAFE)Cheese (is not good for them and despite what cartoons depict, many mice will turn their noses up to it if offered)
Cutris Fruits (as they can cause unset to the tummy which in turn can lead to diarrhea so best avoided)
Corn (corn can be contaminated my mycotoxins produced by fungi and are known carcinogens to animals)
Junk foods (sweets, crisps etc..)Lettuce (is high in water and can cause diarrhea so best avoided)
Liquorice (suspected carcinogen)
Milk (Mice don't drink Milk once weaned from their mothers & introducing milk may upset the tummy & cause diarrhea so best avoided)
Peanuts (are fatty & reports of skin reaction in some Mice who've ingested these, best to avoid)
Anything Caffeinated, containing Alcohol or tobacco should be avoided
Rat Care Sheet
Scientific Name for the domesticated Rat: Rattus Norvegicus (as most domesticated 'Fancy' Rats have originated from Brown Rats)
Phylum: Cordata
Classification: Mammalian
Order: Rodentia
Family: Muridae
Female: Doe
Male: Buck
Neonate-Sub-adult: Kittens/Pups
Gestational period: 21-25 days
Weaned: Usually between 4-6weeks old
Rats make excellent pets (although both sexes make excellent pets, Male Rats are normally larger then females once fully grow and tend to be more laid back & lazy)
Rats are Rodents, small mammals belonging to the largest order seen on our planet. Unfortunately, due to their destructive nature in the wild, they are classed as Vermin by the majority of people, which has given many an unwarranted opinion when it comes to their domesticated cousins. Rats do not get the recognition they deserve and can make extremely rewarding pets.
Choosing your pet Rat
Rats maybe small but they have big hearts and in most cases are gentle creatures. When choosing a pet it is generally wiser to seek out a hobby breeder over other sources. A hobby breeder will know the personalities of their animals, breed for temperament and should be able to answer basic questions on all aspects of husbandry when it comes to that animal. You should be able to view the animals in the home with their litter mates, this is where they are most comfortable at this stage in their lives and it is the only place you can see them interact normally with one another and their owner. Any change to their surroundings or uprooting them to travel to meet you will obviously have an effect on their behavior and could be misleading. Never choose a Rat who seems withdrawn, sullen or extremely scared of their breeder. Ideally, the perfect candidate is inquisitive, approaches the cage front to great their owner and is interested in activities around them. The Rat should be alert, have an over all look of good health and show no aggression what so ever toward the owner. It is not uncommon for a Rat to nibble on your fingers but this is not to be confused with an aggressive bite. Nibbling feels similar to tickling and does not hurt but always remember to wash your hands after handling food as Rats have a good sense of smell and could mistakes the fingers that smell like food, for food :)
Idealy, you should keep a same sex pair (if you wish to own a male pair, litter mates do best together but never introduce a female as they will fight) as they enjoy each others company and seem to benefit greatly from the presence of another, with less mental health issues arising in pairs or female groups.
----> This importance of a companion cannot be stressed when it comes to Rats as they show more behavioral & mental health problems in captivity then mice do when they are alone. Although Rats generally form a strong bond with their humans, the over all long term benefit of a cage mate (same sex) is indisputable. Rats are very intelligent animals, learning their names, answering to it and also learning some basic tricks if thought. They crave your attention, enjoy your company and a Rat who is ignored, not given time with their human and has no company can become angry, frustrated, act out and over all become deeply depressed which can lead to more problems.
Housing your Rat
This importance of a companion cannot be stressed when it comes to Rats as they show more behavioral & mental health problems in captivity When it comes to housing you should provide your Rat with the most comfortable, safe environment possible. Always remember it is not what you deem to be aesthetically pleasing but rather what your Rat will enjoy and benefit from the most. Keeping that in mind the first thing is the enclosure. We find the most secure housing you can offer to your Rat is a wire top cage or a Glass Reptile tank, similar to the Exo Terra for reptiles (NEVER keep in direct sunlight as 'the Green House effect' will most certainly come into play with temperatures rising inside the tank and the outcome for your pet will not be good). Not only does this provide four impenetrable walls and flooring (if your little furry decides to test the water by digging and chewing), it also provides a wire mesh roof which allows for good ventilation. Never keep your Rats home above head level as this may lead to some dominance issues between you and your new pet. So now you have a safe, secure house sorted, you need to look at furnishings.
As Rats are primarily Nocturnal, you need to provide a good substrate, a solid none-transparent hide, some play toys and cosy bedding. Aspen shavings or Newspaper are the best to use as there are many reports of Pine & Cedar shavings containing toxins which are fatal to many animals, Rats included. If you choose shavings, I highly recommend you sieve them before placing them into your pets home, even if the package states 'dust free', in my experience there is no such thing as completely dust free so sieving is the way to go (this reduces the amount of dust the animal could possibly inhale). The hide should be large enough for the Rat to sleep inside comfortably but also block out any day light when the animal is resting. Sleep is very important for physical and mental stability. Animals who do not rest properly can become erratic, loose feeding routines, over eat and find simplistic tasks a challenge.
Make sure to furnish the house with at least one other hide to offer a choice on sleeping quarters. Rats love to explore and play and I feel it is important to offer them as much variety as possible. Plastic tubes, carpet tubes (the kind found inside a role of carpet) and tunnels offer some exciting places for them to explore. They will also enjoy an exercise wheel but never ever use an open wire wheel. I cannot stress how important it is to get a solid wheel (we favour the Silent Spinner wheel when it comes to anything from Mice to Hedgehogs). Wire wheels not only pose a risk to feet but also tails and are not safe for your pet. Rats can litter train so take some time out to watch your pet and find out which corner they have chosen as a bathroom. Remove some shavings they have urinated & defecated on, placing these inside the litter tray. Once you have completely steralised the corner, place the litter tray there and in the majority of cases, the Rat will start to use the litter tray. This is a big help when it comes to hygiene and sanitation within the enclosure. One thing to keep in mind if opting for a wire top cage is to never feed your Rat through the bars as they will soon associate anything coming through the bars as food and that includes fingers.
Feeding Rats
Rats are omnivores. Requiring a diet which consists of protein (avg. 16%), Fiber (avg. 18%) and fat (avg. 4%). It is up to you as an owner to provide a healthy, varied diet. Rats synthesize their own Vitamin C so you do not need to substitute this in their diet. Citrus fruits can be avoided completely as they can cause upset tummies. If you can source a good quality Rat pellet, this can be offered as the staple when mixed with grains (although seeds, grains, nuts and any mix, should be offered sparingly), this way you know exactly what your Rat is eating. Some people suggest feeding Iams (Dog kibble, not over 8% fat) mixed in with some rodent mix if you cannot locate a good Rat pellet but not too much Cat/Dog kibble as they are a rich food. A small portion of Denta sticks can be offered as a treat. The following list contains foods you can offer to your Rat along with their staple.
Safe Foods
Apple (no seeds, sparingly)
Banana (sparingly)
Brussel Sprouts (cooked only, sparingly)Cabbage (sparingly)
Carrots (sparingly)Dates (sparingly)
Cauliflower Leaves (sparingly)
Celery (sparingly)
Dandelion leaves(sparingly)
Figs (sparingly)
Hay (Timothy, Oat & Wheat Hay can be offered daily)
Millet (not the white variety, sparingly)
Peas (sparingly)
Raisins (sparingly)
Rocket (sparingly)
Spinach (sparingly)
Strawberry (sparingly)
Sultanas (sparingly)
Toast (or stale bread NOT mouldy & given sparingly)
Tomato (sparingly)
Watercress (sparingly)
Low Sugar cereal can be offered as a treat;
Other treats you can offer;
Cherios
Corn FlakesOther treats you can offer;
Boiled Pasta (must be cooked & offered sparingly as a treat ONLY)
Boiled Rice (must be cooked & offered sparingly as a treat ONLY)
Some owners choose to keep their Rats as strict Herbivours and other people offer a more varied, natural diet. If you choose to be more open when it comes to feeding time, you can offer gut loaded Mealworm (sparingly as they are high in fat) or gut loaded Crickets (Gut Loading refers to feeding the Cricket a couple of days before offering it to your pet).
Unsafe Foods or food to be avoided
Carbonated Drinks (it is shocking to think of some of the products people offer their pets, soft drinks are NOT SAFE)Cheese (is not good for them and despite what cartoons depict, many Rats will turn their noses up to it if offered)
Cutris Fruits (as they can cause unset to the tummy which in turn can lead to diarrhea so best avoided)
Corn (corn can be contaminated my mycotoxins produced by fungi and are known carcinogens to animals)
Junk foods (sweets, crisps etc..)Lettuce (is high in water and can cause diarrhea so best avoided)
Liquorice (suspected carcinogen)
Milk (Rats don't drink Milk once weaned from their mothers & introducing milk may upset the tummy & cause diarrhea so best avoided)
Peanuts (are fatty & reports of skin reaction in some Rats who've ingested these, best to avoid)
Anything Caffeinated, containing Alcohol or tobacco should be avoided
Rabbit Care Sheet
Scientific Name for domesticated rabbit: Oryctolagus cuniculus
Phylum: Cordata
Classification: Mammalian
Order: Lagomorpha
Family: Leporidae
Female: Doe
Male: Buck
Neonate-Sub-adult: Kittens
Gestational period: 28-31 days
Weaned: Usually fully by 8 weeks old.
Rabbits can make excellent pets but we do not recommended them for young children. Although both sexes can be equally affectionate toward their humans, un-neutered/un-spayed animals upon reaching sexual maturity (and females each time they come into season) can display many undesired behaviors & sexually linked aggression which can lead to injury of the animal or owner.
We strongly recommend talking to your vet about neutering/spaying your pet Rabbit once it reaches the suitable age.
Males can be neutered around 4months of age, with females 4-6months depending on breed as some mature quicker than others. Many vets opt for the animals to be 5-6months of age as surgery on a younger animal holds more risk. Not only will neutering/spaying reduce the risk of sexually linked bad behaviors and aggression, it will also remove the chance of those animals developing cancer in the areas an 'intact' animal would.
Rabbits are Lagomorphs and not Rodents as many people incorrectly assume. Rabbits come in many varieties and sizes can vary greatly depending on breed. The smallest breeds are the Netherland Dwarf (for showing this breed cannot weigh over 2.5 lbs / 1.134kg) and the Polish (who also cannot weigh over 2.5lbs / 1.134kg when it comes to showing) and the largest breed being the Flemish Giant (when showing these Rabbits Bucks must weight no less than 11lb / 4.974kg and Does no less than 12lb / 5.44kg). Unfortunately, due to Rabbits destructive nature in the wild, they are classed as Vermin by the majority of people, which has given many an unwarranted opinion when it comes to their domesticated cousins. Rabbits do not get the recognition they deserve and can make extremely rewarding pets when looked after correctly.
Choosing your pet Rabbit
The majority of Rabbits offered as pets are small to medium is size but they have big personalities. When choosing a pet it is generally wiser to seek out a hobby breeder over other sources. A hobby breeder will know the personalities of their animals, breed for temperament and should be able to answer basic questions on all aspects of husbandry when it comes to that animal. If you decide to go for a young rabbit, you should be able to view the animals in the home with their litter mates (assuming you are going for a newly weaned animal), this is where they are most comfortable at this stage in their lives and it is the only place you can see them interact normally with one another and their owner. Any change to their surroundings or uprooting them to travel to meet you will obviously have an effect on their behavior and could be misleading. Never choose a Rabbit who seems withdrawn, sullen, hunched over or shows extreme fear toward their breeder. Ideally, the perfect candidate is inquisitive, approaches the cage front to greet their owner and is interested in activities around them. Rabbit kittens, like most young animals are quite playful and active. The Rabbit should be alert, have an over all look of good health and show no aggression what so ever toward the owner. It is not uncommon for a young Rabbit to lick or nibble on your fingers but this is not to be confused with an aggressive bite. Nibbling feels similar to pinching and does not hurt. It is also important to remember part of a Rabbits communication system is the use of it's mouth. As an example, a rabbit who is held for long periods of time and wishes to be let down, may give anything from a barely noticeable to a sharp nip to make you aware but obviously as we are not covered in fur, if this communication bite is on bare skin this may hurt somewhat. It is very rare for a Rabbit to draw blood when communicating with you in this way (unless it is aggressive and or asserting itself in which case teeth can cause serious damage) but these are things to take into consideration when choosing your rabbit especially if you have young children.
Rabbit's can be kept singly and if done correctly it is possible to bond opposite sex pairs (obviously neutering one or both animals) as well as neutered/spayed same sex pairs but same sex bonding can be far more difficult, but possible.
Housing your Rabbit indoors
So you've decided you want to have a house Rabbit. Assuming you have an idea of the breed you wish to go for, choose your housing wisely. Some things you need to consider, does the rabbit have enough room to stand to attention without banging it's head off the roof? Does the Rabbit have enough room to flop, stretch out and relax comfortably away from their bathroom corner/litter tray? If the rabbit has enough room to do these things then the next thing to consider is where the Rabbits cage will go. Do you want it in a high traffic area or a quiet part of the house. If choosing a quiet part of the home, remember Rabbits can form a strong bond with their owners and if a rabbit can hear you in the home and feels ignored it may act out by thumping, thrashing of his/her enclosure, flinging bowls and digging. Always remember to 'Rabbit Proof' whatever room the animal will have outside cage time in, which should be daily. No matter how well supervised play time is, many owners find chewed wires, furniture etc...In order to keep wires safe, you can buy some flexible vinyl tubing from a hardware store (in the lengths you require), cut down one side of the tube and then simply place the wires inside (obviously plugs are still exposed) and this offers protection from your rabbits inquisitive nature. When it comes to furniture, rugs/carpets and anything else your rabbit may nibble on, a simple way to distract them is to offer loads of play toys. Stuff kitchen roll tubes with hay and a few treats, a cardboard box with some hay and treats inside can keep even the fussy bunnys entertained for a long time. Also, any safe toys and some tubing/tunnels make excellent distractions as most rabbits readily explore and show more interest in these than the furniture (Carpet suppliers will sometimes give you an inside tube if you ask nicely). You can also use wire penning around an open cage to allow the rabbit time out whenever he/she feels like it. One of the main benefits to having a house rabbit is the animal becomes part of the family, just like the cat or dog and can be just as rewarding.
Housing your Rabbit outdoors
As above, assuming you have an idea of the breed or size of the rabbit you wish to go for, make sure your hutch is safe, secure and suitable in size. Always give consideration to the rabbits needs, physically as well as mentally. Placement of the hutch should be chosen wisely as it is extremely important to your rabbits well being. Can this area provide shade in the sun , a cooler area in warmer weather and a barrier to strong wind and drafts in cold? It is possible to buy zippable (or velcro fastening) hutch covers in many pet stores now a days. These offer protection against rain/water damage to the hutch, they also offer good protection against winds and drafts and make the rabbit feel more secure. If you opt for a hutch with a run attached, make sure it is fully enclosed and secured to the ground to prevent curious cats, foxes and other predatory animals who may visit your garden, gaining access to your pet (you can place some blocks along the roof to add weight so nothing can lift the run with their nose and also double check the wire to make sure it is fully secured with no gaps or weak points which animals will test and look for if trying to get in, or if your rabbit tries to get out). The hutch should be raised off the ground to offer some added protection in adverse weather conditions (prevents flooded enclosures and sodden bases) protecting the hutch from any external structural dampness. Three things to be aware of and prevent are, rising damp (water moving slowy upwards within the walls & floor of the hutch), damp penetration (common in unprotected hutches. Where rain has penetrated the outer layer of the hutch, allowing dampness to spread) and condensation (when water vapor turns into liquid water, basically evaporation in reverse). As above, toys are a must for outdoor rabbits in order to prevent bad behaviorism due to boredom.
When giving your rabbit play time in the garden, make sure to supervise at all times especially baby or smaller rabbits as birds of prey, Magpie and some other Crow family members may take an interest and unfortunately in the majority of cases, even if you manage to interrupt an attack, the chances of survival are slim, so prevention is vital
Feeding Rabbits
In order to feed your rabbit correctly, you need to have a good understanding of their digestive system, dietary requirements & needs. Rabbits are strictly herbivorous. Requiring a diet which consists of vitamins, minerals, high Fiber, low carbs and low fat. It is up to you as an owner to provide a healthy, varied diet and education is the key. Rabbits can live for 10+ years when looked after correctly (not succumbing to any illnesses or diseases) and as their popularity is on the increase within the pet world, it is imperative that owners educate themselves for their animals sake. One thing to keep in mind is rabbits are individuals with their own personalities and tastes and what one rabbits finds extremely palatable, another may not. Also, be aware one rabbit may pass the new food item through their systems perfectly and another have some upset, so if no soft or runny feces appear within a 24period of this new foods introduction, you can offer this food item again. If at any point you see soft feces or diarrhea, stop feeding this new food item immediately. We highly recommend you try new foods one at a time and in small amounts. Rabbits are unable to vomit, a process which allow us to expel material from our stomach. So if your Rabbit ingests something that does not agree with them or makes them ill, they have no choice but to pass this item through their bodies and suffer whatever ill effects it may cause.
The Digestive Process
Rabbits are hindgut or Caecel fermenters which is not only fascinating but also an extremely efficient way of dealing with the indigestible parts of plant matter in their diets. Rabbits not only use mechanical and chemical breakdown of food, but bacterial too which makes a rabbits digestive system fascinating. The entire process starts in the mouth with the rabbit using its prehensile lips (like us, rabbits can use their lips to grasp something) to pick up the food item (Hay, for arguments sake), it then uses it's front teeth called incisors (Rabbits have two incisors in the lower jaw & four in the upper) to cut the Hay into nice manageable sized pieces and passes these cuttings over the diastema (pronounced die-es-tea-ma the gap between the Rabbits incisors and molars) to the molars where the Hay is chewed into finer pieces, mixing with saliva the entire time thus starting the chemical process of breaking down the Hay. Once swallowed, the ingesta passes into the stomach where it mixes with amino acids & enzymes and is broken down further. The now broken down ingesta passes from the stomach into the small intestine where nutrients are absorbed. The muscles contract and relax producing a wave like motion (known as peristalsis), pushing the material toward the caecum (pronounced see-cum) and large intestine. The gti moves digested material into the colon where it is eventually expelled from the body in the form of pelleted feces (the normal round kind you see everyday) but it also moves any indigestible fiber into the caecum where healthy bacteria and other micro organisms turn it into digestible nutrients in the form of small, moist pellets known as caecetrophes (see-ka-trophs). Usually a few hours after feeding, your rabbit may appear to be grooming his/her rear end but this is actually ingestion of the caecetrophes taking place as they leave the body. They are consumed as soon as they appear and are not often seen by the owner.
Rabbits synthesize their own Vitamin C so you do not need to substitute this in their diet and Citrus fruits can be avoided completely as they can cause upset tummies and are not necessary. Although most cartoon and TV bunnys are depicted eating Carrots, errr what's up Doc, Carrots are high in natural sugar and can be avoided completely but if you wish to feed these, please do so sparingly. Your rabbit should be offered the following daily;
Hay
Hay, Hay and more Hay. Rabbits should have an unlimited supply of grass Hay available to them at all times. They need the high levels of fiber contained within in order to keep their forever growing teeth worn down, their gut running smoothly and help pass hair (ingested while grooming) and other indigestible items through their gut which is vital for a healthy rabbit. Timothy, Oat, and Wheat Hay are good sources of fiber with Timothy Hay being one if not the best options available on the market. Alfalfa, although loved by many rabbits, is high in protein and calcium and should be offered sparingly. NEVER give rabbits under 8weeks old Alfalfa Hay as it is too rich for them. Fresh grass is a great source of fiber & Beta carotene but if you choose to allow your rabbits garden grazing time, you must make sure you garden is rabbit safe. Never ever use pesticides, poisons or plant growing formula in a garden where a rabbit has free roam or will eat from as they will, in most cases, kill you pet.
Pellets
A good quality pellet should also be offered daily. The reason for choosing a pellet over a muesli style mix is, pellets do not offer the rabbit with a variety of taste, everything is identical so selective feeding cannot take place and once fed as part of a balanced diet and amounts are correct, then pellets are a much healthier option then any mix out there. Museli mixes often contain ingredients which are high in sugar and can cause all manner of problems for your rabbits sensitive GI Track which in it's self is not a good thing when comes it the animals longevity. According to the BRC article entitled 'The Importance of Diet in Rabbits', "A good general rule is to feed a maximum of 25g of high-fiber pellets per kg of body weight per day"
Your rabbits should have fresh veg daily, no ifs ands or buts about it. Contrary to what some people believe, fresh vegetables are extremely important and good for your rabbit. Always wash veg thoroughly prior to feeding to your rabbit.
Water
Fresh water should be available to your rabbit 24/7. Your rabbits water bottle/dish should never empty especially in warm weather.
Below is a list of plant matter, fruits and vegetables considered safe for Rabbits to eat. This list is offered as a guide only, It is up to you as an owner to feed your pet responsibly and learn the nutritional value and RDA of the food you offer. Many of the following items can be purchased from your local supermarket. Please research each food prior to feeding to your pet.
Agrimony (A Herb who goes by many names including Church Steeple & Sticklewort)
Apple (Malus Domestica & other Malus spp....remove the seeds, can cause blockages in GTI)
Arugula (Rocket plant)
Artichoke (Jerusalem Artichoke, this is a species of Sunflower and not an actual Artichoke)
Asparagus
Banana
Basil
Beet tops (Most well known member of this plant is the root vegetable, Beet Root.)
Blackberry (Fruit, leaves and stems)
Blueberry
Bok Choy
Broccoli
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots (The entire vegetable including the top can be eaten but Carrots are HIGH in sugar so best avoided. The tops/green leafy part is a great source of Viatamin A.)
Celery (Leafs only)
Chard
Chicory (The Radicchio variety is safe too)
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens
Cucumber
Dandelion
Dill
Dock
Endive Fennel
Kale
Mint
Parsley (Good source of Vitamin A.)
Pear
Radish Tops
Raspberry (fruit, leaves and stems)
Spinach
Strawberry
Watercress
Unsafe Foods or food to be avoided
Carbonated Drinks (it is shocking to think of some of the products people offer their pets, soft drinks are NOT SAFE)Cheese
Cutris Fruits (as they can cause unset to the tummy which in turn can lead to diarrhea so best avoided)
Corn (corn can be contaminated my mycotoxins produced by fungi and are known carcinogens to animals)
Junk foods (sweets, crisps etc..)Lettuce (is high in water and can cause diarrhea so best avoided)
Liquorice (suspected carcinogen)
Milk (Rabbits don't drink Milk once weaned from their mothers & introducing milk can upset the GIT & cause diarrhea)
Peanuts
Anything Caffeinated, containing Alcohol or tobacco should be avoided









